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Eating and Drinlink in Naples
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Neapolitan cuisine
consists of simple dishes cooked with fresh, healthy ingredients
. Also, as Naples is not primarily a tourist-geared city, most
restaurants are family-run places used by locals and as such
generally serve good food at very reasonable prices. There's no
better place in Italy to eat pizza, at a solid core of almost
obsessively unchanging places that still serve only the (very
few) traditional varieties. You're never far from a food stall
for delectable snacks on the move, or you can always pick
something up from the city's street markets in La Forcella or
the fish market at Porta Nolana.
Alla Brace , Via S. Spaventa 14-16. Good, cheap alternative just
off Piazza Garibaldi that has well-priced pasta dishes and main
courses. Closed Sun.
Antica Trattoria da Carmine , via Tribunali 330. An unobtrusive
trattoria which boasts a great central location and serves up
tasty standards - Don Carmine's seafood is particularly good.
Closed Sun.
Antonio & Antonio , Via Francesco Crispi 89. A cheery
no-nonsense place which dishes up enormous pizzas from 2.58. No
closing day.
Bellini , Via Santa Maria di Constantinopoli 80. One of the
city's most famous and longest established restaurants, though
it's whispered that the place may be resting on its laurels.
However, it still dishes up delicious pizzas and a very good
selection of other, especially seafood, dishes. It also has a
great convivial outside terrace on the street, screened by
foliage. Closed Sun evenings.
Bersagliera , Borgo Marinaro. Fine food, especially seafood,
though inevitably you pay for the location, slap next to the
Castel dell'Ovo, and for the " O Sole Mio " minstrels who wander
between the tables outside. Closed Tues.
Brandi , Salita Sant'Anna di Palazzo 1-2, off Via Chiaia. One of
Naples' most famous pizzerias, said to be where they invented
the pizza margherita in 1889 in honour of the visiting Queen
Margherita of Savoy. Very friendly, serving pasta and (excellent)
pizzas from 4.13. In the evening, the tables outside in the
candlelit alley are a lovely place to sit. Closed Monday.
California , Via Santa Lucia 101. Another Naples institution,
though a rather different one, serving a menu that's an odd
hybrid of American and Italian specialities. Best for its full
American breakfasts. Closed Sun.
Canterbury , Via Ascensione 6. Strangely named Chiaia restaurant
near the Pignatelli museum that is one of the best-value places
in the area. Pasta dishes are particularly good - try the penne
alla vodka . Closed Sun.
Da Ciciotto , off Via Marechiaro, Posillipo. Hole-in-the-wall
place where in fine weather you can sit outside and enjoy the
bay. Good seafood and fish. To get there, follow Via Marechiaro
to the end, where it opens out onto a small piazza. Take the
steps off the far end that lead down to the sea. Turn sharp
right at the bottom of the first flight. Closed Wed.
Dante e Beatrice , Piazza Dante 44. A long-established
restaurant that trades slightly on its reputation, not least in
its rather brusque service, although its menu of traditional
Naples specialities is still not at all expensive - and you can
eat outside. Closed Wed & late Aug to mid-Sept.
Da Ettore , Via Santa Lucia 56. An inexpensive, no frills,
popular neighbourhood restaurant. Short, reliable menu includes
pizza, with wines from Campania, Sicily and Tuscany. Closed Sun.
Da Gennarino , Via Capuana alla Maddelena 1-2. Again among the
best pizzerias in the city, well situated (opposite the Porta
Capuana) for hungry arrivals by train. Closed Mon.
Gorizia , Via Bernini 29. Unpretentious V?ero restaurant close
to the Centrale and Chiaia funicular stops that does good
antipasti, great mini-pizzas as well as a good selection of main
courses. Try the speciality of the house - veal wrapped around
prosciutto and mozzarella. Closed Wed.
Lombardi a Santa Chiara , Via B. Croce 59. Another well-known
and well-respected pizza restaurant, and with a varied menu
besides pizza. Closed Sun & most of Aug.
O Marenaro , Via Casanova. Around the corner from Piazza
Garibaldi, opposite the CTP bus station, this is a great place
to try zuppa di cozze , with a couple of tables outside. No
closing day in summer; closed Wed in winter.
Di Matteo , via Tribunali 94. A terrific and well-located
pizzeria - one of the best and most famous in the city; Bill
Clinton popped in for a pizza during the 1994 G7 summit. Closed
Sun.
Da Michele , Via Cesare Sersale 1-3. Tucked away off Corso
Umberto I in the Forcella district, this is the most
determinedly traditional of all the Naples pizzerias, offering
just three varieties (allegedly the only three worth eating) -
marinara, margherita and ripieno . Don't arrive late, as they
sometimes run out of dough. Closed Sun.
Da Pasqualino , Piazza Sannazzaro 79. Inexpensive Mergellina
restaurant with outdoor seating and great seafood and pizzas. A
good bet also for takeaway pizzas if you're staying at the
nearby youth hostel. Closed Tues.
Da Peppino Avellinese , Via S. Spaventa 31. The most welcoming
and best value of the many options on and around Piazza
Garibaldi, with terrific antipasti. Used by tourists and locals
alike. Closed Sat in winter, otherwise open every day.
Port'Alba , Via Port'Alba 18. Old-established pizzeria just off
Piazza Dante that has a wide-ranging menu including very good
fish dishes, besides its excellent pizza. Said to be the oldest
pizzeria in Italy. Closed Wed.
Spaghetteria , Via G. Paladino 7. Inexpensive plates of pasta in
a youthful restaurant patronized by students from the nearby
university. Also features a great-value menu turistico (7.23).
Closed Sat lunchtime & Mon evening.
Da Tonino , Via Santa Teresa a Chiaia 47. Friendly and frenetic
restaurant with large tables, around which everyone sits. Try
their pasta e fagioli and pasta e ceci soups and, on Fridays
especially, the seppie in umido - steamed cuttlefish. Closed Sun.
Trianon (da Ciro) , Via P. Colletta 46. Lively Forcella pizzeria
that is a nearby rival to Da Michele (above), but serving a
wider range of pizzas. Open daily.
Al Triunfo Mario , Vico Il Duschesca 10. Great, cheap and
popular eatery just off the Porta Capuana end of Piazza
Garibaldi. Cheap pizza and pasta, and spit-roast chicken. Always
full of locals and workers. Closed Mon.
Umberto , Via Alabardieri 30-31. A long-time popular choice
among the professional classes of the Chiaia district, serving
marvellous food in somewhat smooth and old-fashioned
surroundings that belie the moderate prices. Closed Wed.
Forcella or the fish market at Porta Nolana.
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