Eating and Drinlink in Verona (Back to
Your money goes a
lot further in Verona than it does in Venice: numerous
trattorias offer full meals for around 12.91 (especially in the
Veronetta district, on the east side of the river), while on
almost every street corner there's a bar where a glass of house
wine will set you back a mere 0.52. As the Veneto produces more
DOC wine than any other region in Italy, it's not surprising
that Italy's main wine fair, Vinitaly, is held in Verona; it
takes place in April and offers abundant sampling opportunities.
For non-alcoholic pleasure, sit outside one of the gelaterie in
Piazza dell' Erbe and indulge in an incredible concoction of
fruit, cream and ice cream; another place to make for is
Gelateria Pampanin , by Ponte Garibaldi.
Vicolo Tre Marchetti 1. Good pizzeria for a late-night bite, as
it's open till 1am. Situated in a tiny alley between Via Mazzini
and Via Anfiteatro off the northeast side of the Arena. Closed
Bella Napoli , via Marconi 14. The best pizzas in Verona,
in a distinctly Neapolitan atmosphere. Closed Mon.
Trattoria da Barca , Vicolo Tre Marchette 19b (tel
045.803.0463). A couple of steps north of the Arena, with a
deeply classy ambience, this is the perfect spot for a pre- or
post-opera meal of Veronese specialities. Closed Sun.
Bottega dei Vini , Vicolo Scudo di Francia 3a. Just off
the north end of Via Mazzini, this is simply the best restaurant
in Verona and has one of the largest selections of wines you'll
find anywhere in Italy, though it's slightly touristy as a
result. Open until midnight. Closed Tues.
Maffei , Piazza dell' Erbe 38 (tel 045.801.015). Superb
restaurant in a lovely Baroque palazzo, complete with courtyard.
You can eat superbly for around 30.99, not including wine.
Closed July & Aug, plus Sun (and Mon in winter).
Osteria La Fontanina , Piazzetta Fontanina. One of the
best old-world osterie on the left (west) bank of the Adige,
with restaurant-style atmosphere and prices.
Osteria Perbacco , Via Carducci 48. Moderately priced
Veronetta restaurant with a very attractive garden. Especially
good fish and vegetarian dishes. Closed Wed.
Osteria alla Pigna , Via Pigna 4. Elegant traditional
restaurant in between the duomo and Piazza dell' Erbe. Easily
among the top five of the thirty or so osterie tipiche dotted
around the historic centre. A main course will set you back
around L25,000/?12.91. Closed Sun & Mon lunch.
Pero d'Oro , Via Ponte Pignolo 25. Another good Veronetta
trattoria, with a family atmosphere. Serves inexpensive but
genuine Veronese dishes. Closed Mon.
San Giovanni in Foro , Corte San Giovanni in Foro 4.
Pizzas to rival Bella Napoli with outside seating in a courtyard
just off Corso Porta Borsari. Closed Tues
Al Carro Armato
, Vicolo Gatto 2a. One of the most atmospheric bars in the city,
with live music on Sunday evenings in winter. Open until 2am.
Caffe dell' Erbe , Piazza dell' Erbe 32. Known
universally as Mazzanti, this is the loudest, youngest and
coolest of the late-opening bars on the square.
Al Mascaron , Piazza San Zeno 16. A five-minute walk west
from Castelvecchio takes you beyond the bustle to a quiet square
where you'll find a crowd of young Veronese. Fine wines and an
urbane atmosphere earlier on, popular disco-bar later. Closed
Osteria al Duomo , Via Duomo 7a. Best of the city's bars,
little changed by twentieth-century fashion, and enlivened on
Wednesday afternoons (5-8pm) and Friday nights in winter by a
traditional singalong. Open 4pm-midnight. Closed Thurs.
Osteria al Vino , Via Sottoriva 9. Rumbustious and full
of locals: Verona's traditional osterie don't come much more
authentic than this.
Al Ponte , Via Ponte Pietra. Sip a glass in the garden
here and enjoy a marvellous view of Ponte Pietra and the Teatro
Romano. Open till 3am. Closed Wed.
Ai Preti , Via Acqua Morta 27. Popular osteria over in
the Veronetta district; the pasta and wine are cheap, and
musicians often drop by to play. Closes 8pm.