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Eating and Drinlink in Genoa (Back to
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You could spend
several days checking out the scores of places to eat in
Genoa, from basic trattorias to elegant nineteenth-century
caff? . The cheapest, around the port, are often open only at
lunchtime.
Piazza Caricamento is one of the best places to head for a quick
lunch on the hoof, the arcades ( sottoripe ) along the edge of
the piazza lined with caf? serving focaccia , panini and
deep-fried seafood. There are also lots of places in the old
town selling farinata (Genoa's home-grown snack, made from
chickpea flour and olive oil) - two that stand out are Antica
Sciamadda at Via Ravecca 19r (closed Mon), and Tugnin on Piazza
Tommaseo. Forno Patrone , Via Ravecca 72r (closed Wed afternoon)
is one of the city's top bakeries. Centuries of Turkish
influence has produced Genoese variations on Middle Eastern
confectionery, including candied fruit (best sampled at
Romanengo in Via Soziglia) and slabs of pandolce as served up at
Profumo in Via del Portello.
Bars
Bar Berto , Piazza delle Erbe 6r. Relaxed caf?bar
founded in 1904 by Mr Berto who walked some 15km west to the
ceramics centre of Albisola in order to collect colourful bits
of broken tile to decorate the walls of his new bar. Whether
inside or out beneath the terrace awning, this is a trendy spot
for coffee, beer or a reasonably priced light meal. Open daily.
Doge Bar , Piazza Matteotti 84r. Small, civilized little
nook alongside the Palazzo Ducale for daytime sandwiches and
coffee. Closed Sun.
Klainguti , Piazza Soziglia 98r. An Austrian-built salon
dating from 1828, selling cakes and ice cream under chandeliers.
They still produce the hazelnut croissant known as a Falstaff ,
which was much esteemed by Giuseppe Verdi, who spent forty
winters in Genoa - "Thanks for the Falstaff, much better than
mine," he wrote to the bakers. No closing day.
Caf?La Madeleine , Via della Maddalena 103r. A wonderful
little caf?theatre, haunt of writers, poets, musicians and
story-tellers, with plenty of readings and small concerts.
Closed Mon.
Caff?Mangini , Via Roma at Piazza Corvetto. One of
Genoa's most venerable pasticcerie , in business since the early
1800s and still top-notch today. No closing day.
Caffetteria Orefici , Via degli Orefici 25r. Fragrant
temple to the art of coffee-making, with a range of specialist
coffees and perfect results every time. Closed Sun.
Caf?Roger , Via Sant'Agostino. A quirky spot designed in
riotous style after the Frank Zappa song "The Dangerous Kitchen"
- every shelf is wonky, fake meat-cleavers dangle overhead,
plastic sharks rise out of the sink, phoney electric cables
snake around the basins, and so on. The staff, music, and
clientele make this a fun stop for a daytime coffee or evening
beer. No closing day.
Caff?degli Specchi , Salita Pollaiuoli 43r. Hidden in an
alley opposite the Palazzo Ducale, this has been a prime spot
since 1917 for Genovese artists, writers and intellectuals to
take coffee while admiring themselves in the mirrors ( specchi )
which cover the magnificent tiled interior. The place still
offers much the same ambience and old-time service, along with
some tapas in the evening. Closed Sun.
Restaurants
La Berlocca
, Via del Macelli di Soziglia 45r (tel 010.247.4162). Young
bistro-style establishment in the old town, offering something
more adventurous than traditional Ligurian dishes. Closed Mon.
Da Genio , Salita San Leonardo 61r (tel 010.588.443).
This long-established restaurant, off Via Fieschi at the top of
a steep hill above Piazza Dante, is highly regarded for great
Ligurian food, served in a reasonably informal atmosphere, at
moderate prices. Closed Sun & Aug.
Kilt , Via Bisagno 8. Self-service canteen dishing out
three-course meals for 8.26. No closing day. Kilt 2 (closed Sun)
is on Piazza San Matteo.
Mario Rivaro , Via del Portello 16r. Decent local dishes
and seafood soups, from 10.33 a dish. Closed Sun.
?taja d?Castello , Salita Santa Maria di Castello 32r.
Great old-town family-run trattoria serving Genoese specialities
- mainly, but not exclusively, fish. Moderate to low prices.
Closed Sun.
Pans? , Piazza delle Erbe 5r (tel 010.246.8903).
Venerable Genoese institution, in the same family since 1790;
diners select from a fishy menu priced high to keep the
riff-raff away. Closed Sun eve.
Pintori , Via di San Bernardo 68r. Family-run trattoria
serving Sardinian specialities along with, on occasion,
vegetarian dishes such as torte di verdura (check in advance for
availability). Closed Sun & Mon.
Da Rina , Mura delle Grazie 3r. High-quality, simple
Genoese cooking in fairly unpretentious surroundings down near
the waterfront. Lots of fish and classic Ligurian dishes such as
cima alla genovese . Moderately priced. Closed Mon.
Squarciafico , Piazza Invrea 3r (tel 010.247.0823,
www.squarciafico.it ). Atmospheric cantina in the wine-cellar of
a fifteenth-century mansion just off Piazza San Lorenzo. Calm,
modern decor and innovative, carefully prepared food complement
each other perfectly; be prepared for 23.24 per person. Closed
Aug.
Trattoria dei Genoani , Piazza delle Erbe 8r. Sociable
little trattoria in a lively area founded and patronized by
supporters of the Genoa football club - don't go shouting for
Sampdoria here - which offers down-the-line takes on Genoese and
Ligurian dishes, for affordable prices. No closing day.
Tre Finestre , Scalinata di San Antonio 2a. A tiny
old-time trattoria off Piazza Sarzano. There's no menu (the
waitress will just rattle off the dishes of the day), and the
food is cheap, plain and hearty. Join in the good old-fashioned
accordion singalong on Friday nights. Closed Mon-Thurs eve, and
all day Sun.
Ugo , Via Giustiniani 86r. Convivial trattoria in the
heart of the student quarter near San Donato, with a boisterous,
friendly group of regulars who pack in at shared tables to wolf
the Genovese and Ligurian nosh - heavy on pesto and seafood. A
hearty meal for two can come in at under 15.49. Well worth
checking out. Closed Sun & Mon.
Zeffirino , Via XX Settembre 20r (tel 010.591.990).
Expensive - expect to pay around 42.32 (excluding wine) for a
three- to four-course meal of between-two-stools trad/mod
cuisine - but this is where Frank Sinatra and Pavarotti have
also dined and so has ineffable star quality. Closed Wed.
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