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The Palio of
Siena
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Siena main information page)
The Siena Palio is
the most spectacular festival event in Italy: a twice-yearly
bareback horse race around the Campo, preceded by days of
preparation, medieval pageantry and chicanery. Only ten of the
contrade can take part in any one race; these are chosen by lot,
and their horses and jockeys are also assigned at random. The
only rule is that riders cannot interfere with each others'
reins. Otherwise, anything goes: each contrada has a traditional
rival, and ensuring that it loses is as important as winning
oneself. Jockeys may be bribed to throw the race or whip a rival
or a rival's horse; contrade have been known to drug horses and
even to ambush a jockey on his way to the race. This is
primarily a show for the Sienese; for visitors, in fact, the
undercurrent of brutality and the bragging, days-long
celebration of victory can be quite a shock.
The race has been held since at least the thirteenth century.
Originally it followed a circuit through the town, but since the
sixteenth century it has consisted of three laps of the Campo ,
around a track covered with sand and padded with mattresses to
minimize injury to riders and horses (though this does occur,
and the Palio is a passionate subject for animal-rights
supporters). There are normally two Palios a year, with the
following build-up:
June 29/August 13 : The year's horses are presented in the
morning at the town hall and drawn by lot. At 7.15pm the first
trial race is held in the Campo.
June 30/August 14 : Further trial races at 9am and 7.45pm.
July 1/August 15 : Two more trial races at 9am and 7.45pm,
followed by a street banquet in each of the contrade .
July 2/August 16 : The day of the Palio opens with a final trial
at 9am. In the early afternoon each contrada takes its horse to
be blessed in its church (it's a good omen if the horse shits).
At around 5pm the town hall bell begins to ring and riders and
comparse - equerries, ensigns, pages and drummers in medieval
costume - proceed to the Campo for a display of flag-twirling
and other pageantry. The race itself begins at 7.45pm on July 2,
or 7pm on August 16, and lasts little more than ninety seconds.
There's no PA system to tell you what's going on. At the start
(in the northwest corner of the Campo) all the horses except one
are penned between two ropes; the free one charges the group
from behind, when its rivals least expect it, and the race is
on. It's a hectic and violent spectacle; a horse that throws its
rider is still eligible to win. The jockeys don't stop at the
finishing line but keep going at top speed out of the Campo,
pursued by a frenzied mass of supporters. The palio - a silk
banner - is subsequently presented to the winner.
There are viciously expensive stands for dignitaries and the
rich (booked months ahead), but most spectators crowd for free
into the centre of the Campo. For the best view , you need to
have found a position on the inner rail by 2pm (ideally at the
start/finish line), but be prepared to stand your ground; people
keep pouring in right up until a few minutes before the race,
and the swell of the crowd can be quite overwhelming. Toilets,
shade and refreshments are minimal, and you won't be able to
leave the Campo until at least 8.30pm. Hotel rooms are extremely
difficult to find, and if you haven't booked, reckon on either
staying up all night or travelling in from a neighbouring town.
The races are shown live on national TV and repeated endlessly
all evening.
All year round, Cinema Moderno on Piazza Tolomei screens a
twenty-minute film explaining the history and drama of the race,
dubbed into various languages (Mon-Sat, in English on the
half-hour 9.30am-5.30pm; 5.16).
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