Liguria

Liguria is a narrow arc of coast between the mountains and the sea. Its most famous stretch is the Cinque Terre, five coloured villages linked by footpaths and terraced vineyards, followed by Portofino, Camogli and the Gulf of Poets around Lerici and Portovenere.

Genoa, an old maritime republic, has one of the largest historic centres in Europe, and the Riviera di Ponente to the west offers sandy beaches and medieval villages like Finale Ligure. Don't leave without trying pesto, focaccia and farinata.

A strip of land between mountains and sea

Liguria is a narrow crescent of land squeezed between the Maritime Alps, the Apennines and the Ligurian Sea. In many places the mountains drop straight into the water, and the Ligurians have had to win space from the rock by building terraces for olive trees and vines, hilltop villages and roads clinging to the cliffs. The result is a unique landscape, where colourful villages overlook small bays and footpaths link one village to the next along the coast. The region is divided into two Rivieras: the Riviera di Ponente, west of Genoa, sunnier, with sandy beaches and flower growing, and the Riviera di Levante, to the east, more rugged, with the Cinque Terre and the Gulf of Tigullio. At the centre lies Genoa, an ancient maritime republic and one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean.

Genoa, the Superb

Genoa has one of the largest medieval historic centres in Europe, a maze of carruggi, narrow dark alleys that suddenly open onto squares and churches. The Strade Nuove, Via Garibaldi and Via Balbi, are lined with the Palazzi dei Rolli, sixteenth- and seventeenth-century noble residences listed by UNESCO, some of which house museums with works by Rubens, Van Dyck and Caravaggio. The Old Port, redesigned by Renzo Piano, is home to the Aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, and the Bigo, a panoramic lift. Not to be missed are the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, the Ducal Palace, Boccadasse, an old fishing village, and the promenade at Nervi with its parks. Funiculars and public lifts take you up to viewpoints overlooking the city.

The Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre, a UNESCO site and national park, are five villages clinging to the coast between Levanto and La Spezia: Monterosso, the only one with a real beach, Vernazza, with its little harbour and tower, Corniglia, the only one not on the sea, at the top of a long stairway, and Riomaggiore and Manarola, with their colourful houses rising sheer above the water. They are linked by train, by boat and by a network of footpaths, the most famous of which is the Sentiero Azzurro, the Blue Trail. The terraced vineyards produce Sciacchetrà, a sweet raisin wine. To avoid the crowds it is best to visit in spring or autumn, ideally on weekdays, and to check which trails are open, since they require the Cinque Terre Card.

Portofino and the Gulf of Tigullio

Portofino is one of the most photographed harbours in the world, with its little square and pastel houses overlooking the boats. From the village a path climbs to Castello Brown and the lighthouse, and the promontory is a nature park and marine protected area: the abbey of San Fruttuoso, in a bay reachable only on foot or by boat, has the Christ of the Abyss statue on the seabed. In the Gulf of Tigullio are Santa Margherita Ligure, an elegant resort, Rapallo, with its castle on the sea, Camogli, a fishing village with very tall houses, and Sestri Levante, with its two bays, the Bay of Silence and the Bay of Fables.

La Spezia and the Gulf of Poets

La Spezia, a seaside city and base of the Italian Navy, is the ideal starting point for the Cinque Terre. Its gulf is called the Gulf of Poets because it was loved by Byron and Shelley: Portovenere, a UNESCO site together with the islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto, has the church of San Pietro on the cliffs and tower houses along the harbour, while Lerici and Tellaro, on the other shore, are enchanting villages with castles and coves. Inland, the Lunigiana, on the border with Tuscany, is a land of castles, country churches and prehistoric stele statues.

The Riviera di Ponente

The Riviera di Ponente has a mild climate all year round and long sandy beaches. Sanremo, the city of flowers, is famous for its Italian song festival, its casino and its Russian Orthodox church. Nearby are the Hanbury Botanical Gardens, close to Ventimiglia, among the finest gardens in the Mediterranean, and inland villages such as Dolceacqua, with the medieval bridge painted by Monet, and Apricale. Further east are Alassio with its Muretto wall of celebrity tiles and its long beach, Albenga with its old town and towers, Finale Ligure, a paradise for climbing and mountain biking, and Noli, an ancient maritime republic. The Toirano caves and the villages of Cervo and Varigotti complete the picture.

Inland Liguria

Behind the coast, Liguria hides green valleys and stone villages that see few visitors. The Beigua Park, a UNESCO Global Geopark, offers trails with views over the sea and the Alps. The Aveto and Graveglia valleys are rich in woodland and old mines, while the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri is a hiking route of more than four hundred kilometres that crosses the whole region along the ridge. Inland villages produce olive oil, cheese, chestnuts and mushrooms, and in summer village food festivals are everywhere.

Food and wine

Ligurian cooking is made of aromatic herbs, extra-virgin olive oil and garden vegetables. Pesto alla genovese, pounded in a mortar with basil, pine nuts, garlic, pecorino and parmesan, is served with trofie and trenette pasta; Genoese focaccia, thick and oily, is eaten even at breakfast, and focaccia di Recco, thin and filled with cheese, is a protected speciality. Chickpea farinata, the Easter torta pasqualina, pansoti with walnut sauce, anchovies from Monterosso, the elaborate cappon magro salad and Ligurian-style rabbit are other typical dishes. The Riviera's olive oil, made from Taggiasca olives, is delicate and fragrant. Among the wines are Vermentino, Pigato, Rossese di Dolceacqua and Sciacchetrà from the Cinque Terre.

Experiences to enjoy

Walking from one village to the next along the coastal paths is the best way to experience Liguria, but there is much more. You can take a boat trip to watch whales and dolphins in the Pelagos Sanctuary, a protected area between Liguria, France and Tuscany; visit an olive mill on the Riviera di Ponente during the harvest; attend the Feast of San Fortunato in Camogli, with its giant frying pan for fish, or the Regatta of the Ancient Maritime Republics when it is held in Genoa.

When to go and how to get around

Spring and autumn are the best seasons for the Cinque Terre and for hiking, when the weather is mild and the crowds smaller. Summer is perfect for the sea, but the most famous villages are very crowded. The Riviera di Ponente, with its mild climate, is pleasant in winter too. In Liguria the train is the most convenient way to travel: the coastal line links Ventimiglia, Sanremo, Genoa, the Cinque Terre and La Spezia, and a car is not recommended in the Cinque Terre because parking is scarce. Ferries link the villages of the Tigullio and the Cinque Terre. Genoa airport is the region's main airport, but Pisa and Nice are also convenient.