Marche

Marche is one of Italy's best kept secrets: a region of rolling hills between the Apennines and the Adriatic, dotted with walled towns. Urbino, the ideal Renaissance city, gave birth to Raphael, and Loreto is one of the great pilgrimage sites of Europe.

The coast offers the white cliffs and coves of the Conero near Sirolo and Numana, and long beaches at Senigallia and San Benedetto. Inland are the Frasassi caves, the Sibillini mountains and wines like Verdicchio.

A region in the plural

The Marche have a plural name because in the Middle Ages they consisted of several marches, border territories of the Papal States. Even today the region has many souls: between the Apennines and the Adriatic, parallel valleys follow one another, with hills of wheat, vineyards and sunflowers, walled villages on every hilltop and more than one hundred and eighty kilometres of coastline. The Marche are less well known than the neighbouring regions, but they hold art cities such as Urbino, Raphael's birthplace, historic theatres in almost every town, sanctuaries such as Loreto, spectacular caves and a hearty cuisine. It is an ideal region for those who love discovering the lesser-known Italy, at a relaxed pace and at affordable prices.

Urbino, the ideal city

Urbino, a UNESCO site, is one of the jewels of the Italian Renaissance. In the fifteenth century Duke Federico da Montefeltro made it one of the most refined courts in Europe, and the Ducal Palace, with its towers, courtyard and inlaid study, is the proof. Inside, the National Gallery of the Marche holds masterpieces such as Piero della Francesca's Flagellation, the Ideal City panel and Raphael's La Muta. Raphael's birthplace, the frescoed oratories of San Giovanni and San Giuseppe and the steep lanes complete the visit. Urbino is also a lively university town.

Ancona and the Conero Riviera

Ancona, the regional capital, is a port city on a promontory, with the Cathedral of San Ciriaco at the top of the Guasco hill, the Arch of Trajan on the harbour and the Mole Vanvitelliana, a pentagonal building on an artificial island. South of the city rises Monte Conero, a promontory of white limestone covered with Mediterranean scrub and protected by a regional park. The Conero Riviera has some of the most beautiful beaches on the Adriatic: Portonovo, with the Romanesque church of Santa Maria and its Napoleonic fort, Sirolo, with the Due Sorelle beach reachable by boat, and Numana, with its little harbour.

Loreto, Recanati and the hills

A few kilometres from the Conero, Loreto is one of the most important Marian sanctuaries in the world: the basilica holds the Holy House, according to tradition the house in Nazareth where the Virgin Mary lived. Nearby, Recanati is the birthplace of the poet Giacomo Leopardi: you can visit the family home and library and the hill of the Infinite, which inspired his most famous poem. The hills around Macerata, Jesi and Fermo are dotted with villages such as Montecosaro, Treia and Cingoli, called the balcony of the Marche. Macerata hosts an open-air opera festival every summer in the Sferisterio arena.

The art cities of the interior

The Marche have many little-known art cities. Ascoli Piceno, built of travertine, has one of the most beautiful squares in Italy, Piazza del Popolo, with the historic Caffè Meletti, and is the home of olive all'ascolana, stuffed fried olives. Jesi, birthplace of Emperor Frederick II, has intact medieval walls and the Pergolesi theatre. Fabriano is famous for paper, made here since the Middle Ages, with its Museum of Paper and Watermarks. Fermo, Camerino, Tolentino with the basilica of San Nicola and Osimo with its underground caves complete a rich itinerary. Pesaro, on the northern coast, is the city of Gioachino Rossini, celebrated every summer with the Rossini Opera Festival.

Caves, gorges and mountains

Inland from Ancona, the Frasassi Caves are one of the most spectacular karst systems in Europe: a fitted path crosses enormous chambers full of stalactites and stalagmites. Nearby, the Gola della Rossa gorge and the Romanesque abbey of San Vittore delle Chiuse are other stops not to miss. Further south, the Sibillini Mountains National Park, shared with Umbria, offers peaks over two thousand metres, Lake Pilato, glacial lakes and legends linked to the Sibyl. The Furlo Gorge near Urbino, with the tunnel dug by the Romans along the Via Flaminia, is a nature reserve of great charm. In winter there is skiing on the Sibillini and on Monte Catria.

The sea of the Marche

The Marche coast alternates long sandy beaches, ideal for families, with the cliffs of the Conero and San Bartolo. The Monte San Bartolo Park, between Pesaro and Gabicce, has cliffs rising sheer from the sea and villages such as Fiorenzuola di Focara. Senigallia has the Velvet Beach, one of the longest on the Adriatic, and the Rotonda a Mare pavilion, the town's symbol. Further south, the Riviera delle Palme, with San Benedetto del Tronto, Grottammare and Cupra Marittima, has palm-lined promenades and old villages on the hills behind. Fano has a Roman arch and hosts Fano Jazz and a sweets-throwing carnival.

Food and wine

The cooking of the Marche combines land and sea. Olive all'ascolana, stuffed with meat and fried, are the best-known speciality; vincisgrassi, a lasagne rich in ragù, is the Sunday dish; and brodetto fish stew, prepared differently in Ancona, Fano and San Benedetto, tells the story of the seafaring tradition. Ciauscolo, a soft spreadable salami, porchetta, formaggio di fossa, cheese aged in pits at Talamello and Sogliano, white truffles from Acqualagna and the fine egg pasta of Campofilone complete the table. Among the wines are Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and di Matelica, elegant whites, Rosso Conero, Rosso Piceno and Vernaccia di Serrapetrona, a sparkling red.

Experiences to enjoy

The Marche are best discovered slowly. You can visit one of the many historic theatres, small Italian-style jewels found in many towns, attend a performance at the Sferisterio arena in Macerata, or watch historical re-enactments such as the Quintana in Ascoli Piceno. In autumn the White Truffle Fair in Acqualagna attracts food lovers from all over Italy, while in summer the villages of the coast and the interior come alive with festivals. A boat trip along the Conero from the harbour of Numana reveals the most beautiful coves.

When to go and how to get around

Summer is the season for the sea, from June to September, while spring and autumn are perfect for the art cities, the villages and hiking in the Sibillini. Autumn is also the time of truffles and the grape harvest. The Adriatic railway links Pesaro, Fano, Senigallia, Ancona, Loreto and San Benedetto del Tronto, and an inland line reaches Jesi, Fabriano and Genga for the Frasassi Caves. For Urbino, the villages and the interior a car is the most convenient choice. Marche Airport, Ancona Falconara, is the regional airport, and the airports of Bologna and Rimini are also convenient.