Sicily

Sicily is a continent in miniature. Greeks, Arabs, Normans and Spaniards have all left their mark: the temples of Agrigento and Selinunte, the Arab-Norman churches of Palermo and Monreale, the Baroque towns of Noto, Ragusa and Modica in the south-east.

Mount Etna, Europe's highest active volcano, dominates the east coast near Taormina and Catania. Around the island lie the Aeolian and Egadi archipelagos, and the food is legendary: arancini, cannoli, granita and fresh fish in every port.

The island where civilisations meet

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean and a land where civilisations have been layered on top of one another for three thousand years. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Swabians, Aragonese and Spaniards left temples, theatres, mosques turned into churches, golden cathedrals, Baroque palaces and a cuisine that mixes flavours from half the Mediterranean. On top of this come extraordinary landscapes: Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe, the Aeolian and Egadi islands, the salt pans of Trapani, white sandy beaches and sheer cliffs. Sicily has many UNESCO sites, from the Valley of the Temples to the Baroque towns of the Val di Noto.

Palermo, Arab-Norman capital

Palermo is an intense, chaotic and beautiful city. The Arab-Norman itinerary, a UNESCO site, includes the Palatine Chapel in the Norman Palace, with its golden mosaics, the Cathedral, the red-domed churches of San Giovanni degli Eremiti and San Cataldo, the Martorana and, just outside the city, the cathedral of Monreale, covered in mosaics. The historic centre revolves around the Quattro Canti crossroads and Piazza Pretoria, and the historic markets, Ballarò, the Capo and the Vucciria, are the best places to try street food. The Teatro Massimo, one of the largest opera houses in Europe, and the beach at Mondello complete the visit.

Western Sicily

East of Palermo, Cefalù is a seaside town with a Norman cathedral and a long beach. Heading west towards Trapani you come to the Zingaro nature reserve, with coves reachable only on foot, San Vito Lo Capo, famous for its beach and couscous festival, and Erice, a medieval village on a mountaintop overlooking the salt pans and the islands. The salt pans between Trapani and Marsala, with their windmills and mounds of salt, offer unforgettable sunsets. The Doric temple of Segesta, alone on a hill, and the ruins of Selinunte, one of the largest archaeological parks in Europe, are among the most evocative Greek sites on the island. Offshore, the Egadi Islands, Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo, have exceptionally clear water.

Agrigento and the south coast

The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, a UNESCO site, is one of the largest and best preserved Greek archaeological complexes in the world: the almost intact Temple of Concord, the Temple of Juno and the Temple of Heracles line a ridge facing the sea and are best seen at dawn or sunset. Nearby, the Scala dei Turchi is a cliff of white marl that descends in steps into the sea. Inland, Piazza Armerina has the Villa Romana del Casale, with the most extensive Roman mosaics in the world, including the famous girls in bikinis. Further south-east are the beaches of the province of Ragusa and, offshore, the Pelagie Islands with Lampedusa.

The Baroque of the Val di Noto

After the earthquake of 1693, south-eastern Sicily was rebuilt in Baroque style, creating an ensemble unique in the world and listed by UNESCO. Noto is the garden of stone, with its cathedral and golden palaces along the main street. Ragusa Ibla is a maze of stairways and churches on a rocky spur, Modica is famous for its theatrical churches and its cold-worked chocolate, and Scicli for its facades and as the setting of a well-known television detective series. Caltagirone, with its ceramic staircase, and Palazzolo Acreide complete the picture. On the coast, the Vendicari reserve protects beaches, marshes and flamingos.

Syracuse, Catania and Etna

Syracuse was one of the most powerful cities of the Greek world. In the Neapolis archaeological park you can visit the Greek Theatre, where classical tragedies are performed every summer, and the Ear of Dionysius; the island of Ortigia, the old town, has a cathedral built over the temple of Athena, the Arethusa spring with its papyrus plants and a lively market. Catania, rebuilt in black lava stone, has a fine cathedral square with the elephant statue that symbolises the city, the fish market and Via Etnea. Above the city rises Etna, a UNESCO site: you climb by cable car and off-road vehicle to the summit craters, accompanied by authorised guides. On the Ionian coast, Taormina overlooks the sea with its Ancient Theatre and views of the volcano, while Isola Bella, just below, is a nature reserve.

The Aeolian Islands

The Aeolian archipelago, a UNESCO site, consists of seven volcanic islands north of Sicily. Lipari is the largest and liveliest, with its castle and archaeological museum; Vulcano has hot mud baths and a hike up to the crater; Stromboli is an active volcano from which, in the evening, you can watch the eruptions; Salina is green and grows capers and Malvasia grapes; Panarea is the most glamorous; Filicudi and Alicudi are wild and silent. They are reached by hydrofoil from Milazzo, Messina and, in summer, Palermo.

Messina, the Nebrodi and the Madonie

The north-east of the island is the greenest and least known part of Sicily. Messina, Sicily's gateway on the Strait, has a cathedral with the largest astronomical clock in the world, whose statues come to life at noon, and a regional museum with works by Antonello da Messina and Caravaggio. Along the Tyrrhenian coast, Tindari, near Patti, is a sanctuary on a headland above the Marinello lagoons. Inland, the Nebrodi and Madonie parks protect beech and oak forests, lakes, San Fratello horses and free-ranging black pigs, as well as mountain villages such as Castelbuono, Petralia Soprana and Gangi, where time seems to have stood still. This is the Sicily of cheeses, mushrooms and manna, ideal for anyone looking for hiking and silence.

Food and wine

Sicilian cuisine is one of the richest in Italy. Arancini rice balls, spleen sandwiches, chickpea fritters called panelle and the thick sfincione pizza are Palermo's street food; pasta with sardines, pasta alla Norma, caponata, Trapani's fish couscous and swordfish reveal Arab and seafaring influences. The desserts are legendary: cannoli, cassata, granita with brioche, marzipan fruit and Modica chocolate. Pistachios from Bronte, capers from Pantelleria and Salina, blood oranges and olive oil complete the pantry. Wines include Nero d'Avola, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, the wines of Etna, Marsala and Passito di Pantelleria.

When to go and how to get around

Sicily can be visited almost all year round. April, May and June are perfect for the art cities and archaeological sites, with the countryside in bloom; September and October are ideal for the sea, which is still warm. July and August are very hot inland and crowded on the smaller islands. In winter the coast is mild and you can ski on Etna. To tour the island a car is almost essential, as trains are slow; coaches link the main cities well. The airports are Palermo, Catania, Trapani and Comiso, and ferries connect Sicily with Naples, Genoa, Civitavecchia and Calabria across the Strait of Messina.